Temp:How to fix static
What is it and why it heappens
The restart (starting...) issue is caused by static electricity created by poor casing design OR bad solder joints on the internal RAMS. Essentially the player is trying to start and cannot read the rams correctly in order to start up. First, determine what is causing your problem. Disassemble your player and try to start it up with the boards out of the casing. You can leave the LCD board in the top casing but remove the center chrome Part completely. If it starts up normally now it means that static electricity was causing your problem. If it still says "starting..." it's more than likely to have bad solder joints. (link to rams soldering)
To minimize/solve the restarting, you should completely isolate your player from the exterior and from the casing.
Static electricity build-up is a normal event for anything, including music players and humans. What is abnormal, is that the static electricity (often just "static" for short), can enter the device and "zap" components on the inside. What happens is that static builds up on the platic parts of the case. The shiny ring found on many players paves a free (read: electrically conducting) path to the inside of the player. When static builds up too much, the static discharges from the ring, and into the inside components of your player. The sudden spike in voltage can be enough to reset the player, and potentially even damage it.
The solution is as simple as it is easy: Block the path for the static.
How to fix
Option one: Carry the player in an anti-static bag, and as an added bonus, it will water proof it too. A downside is that this is a little overkill, buttons become harder to reach, and it looks a little strange around your neck.
Option two: the more preferred option and equally more difficult option is to open up the player(link) and isolate the insides from the metalic parts of the casing. The most important components to isolate are:
- The USB plug: as this is often in direct contact with both insides components and the casing
- The microphone: it has a metal case, which can touch the metalic ring
- The screws: they touch the casing, and the PCB, the connection (punintended) should be obvious.
- The boards themselves: you can't get more cover than this!
- The neck-strap thingy: this can move around a little, and among others, it can touch the printboards and the casing.
- Anything else that seems to even remotely touch the casing and the printed circuit boards together, be generous with that electrical tape!
(one photo with all isolated parts pointed out with arrows) (one photo with completely isolated board (wrapped in tape))
There are two ways you can accomplish this result.
To isolate those parts, you can use ordinary electrical tape, or any other insulating material(example: anti-static bags + scissors + superglue or "hot melt" glue).
The Chrome metal "looking" center part is actually plastic that is chromed after being molded. This process involves spraying on a conductive paint and then electroplating the plastic. A side effect of this process of making that part very shiny is that it is electrically contuctive. Our goal is to make the parts of this that touch our boards non-conductive. Using a small (box cutter or exacto knife) gently scrape away the chrome shiny and black paint that is on the plastic tab screw holes at the very least. This is the part that the board actually touches. It's not a bad idea to scrape more from any protruding internal plastic chromed parts as well and it wouldn't hurt to do the entire inside either(although that would not necessarily be any better). The goal is simply to isolate the board from the inside chromed part.
This will leave two other parts that need isolation: The USB plug can be isolated by wraping it with electrical tape and or scraping the chrome part that could touch it. The other part is the neckstrap anchor swivel. You must put some electrical tape between it and the PCBs as it can be pushed in and touch the MIC inside. I recommend putting some black electrical tape on the end of the PCB and a smale circle of tape on the anchor itself. This will ensure good isolation.
If you tried this, but your player still restarts randomly, try to remove the screws, and see if it solves the problem. If it does, you can use superglue to fix your board to the case. (NOTE: you won't be able to fully dissasemble your player after this!)
If it does not work, you player might have bad solders on the circuitry instead of static. You might need to fix the solders(links)of your flash memory chips. Another option could be corrupted songs, or the memory issue(LINK)